The KOTQ

Here’s my homework outline for my presentation at the KOTQ Las Vegas, 15Q3/Q4 on January 16, 2016. I’ll put the summary first:

The Glenglassaugh Distillery in Summary:

1) Tradition of quality from water, coastal location (warehousing), and equipment configuration; resisted blend corruption
2) Beneficiary of large Portsoy warehouse (Rare Cask Series, Massandra Collection, perhaps focus of Scaent Group) and 21st century single malt boom
3) Benriach Distillery positive future (Benriach, Glendronach, Glenglassaugh – pronounced GlenGlassOCH) characterized by traditonal operations and high quality, high character expressions
– “2015 has been a stellar year for the company. As well as winning these coveted ‘Malt Maniacs’ medals, we took a further ten medals…at the IWSC (International Wine and Spirit Competition) awards…and we became the ‘Global Whisky Distiller of the Year’ at the ‘Icons of Whisky’ awards.”
– Look for Benriach’s approach to standard expressions in the upcoming months and years

1875-1907: THE FOUNDING

– Coastal distillery (which I believe they prefer to be categorized as a [Eastern] Highland! I’ve updated their region in our database); popular among illicit distillers of the time
– Col James Moir and 2 nephews; emphasis on quality
– Upon the death of 1 of the nephews sold to Highland Distillers

1907-1960: DARK TIMES

– Highland Distillers kept the assets but mothballed operations
– Used as a military bakery in WWII

1960-1986: SUPPORT OF BLENDS

– New design, facilities, and increased capacity for the purpose of supplying to blends
– Highly complex character problematic to blenders
– Famous Grouse, Cutty Sark
– Victim of 1980s recession; large warehouse retained operation leading to advanced-aged expressions

1986-2008 WAREHOUSE OPERATES

– stocks available as an asset for future purchase
– 12yo and 19yo released by the Highland/Edrington group (available at TWE)

Post 2008: REVIVAL!

– Two owners: The Scaent group (whisky enthusiasts, used stores for revenue; began spirit operation) and The Benriach Co (quality emphasis: unique combination of water source, nor-eastern coastal warehousing, and equipment configuration (most of the important original equipment endures with low automation and small, highly-skilled craftsman operation)
– 16 DEC 2008 first spirited casked

CAMPAIGNS

– “Spirit That Cannot Be Named” et al (because it wasn’t legally scotch due to its age) expression released in 2009
– “Revival” release in 2012 (4 yo); first scotch from new operation. KOTQ tasted 6 yo in June, 2014.
– Rare Cask Release Series (“fruit bombs”), (Benriach release, Scaent designed), ancient single casks; available at Binny’s in a triple-pack
– Massandra Connection (2010); (Benriach release, Scaent designed), ancient single casks with an unprecedented finishing in various wine caskets (Sherry, Muscat, Madeira, Port and Aleatico) from Yalta/Crimea/Ukraine region of winemaking
– 30 yo and 40yo: FIRST RELEASES BY BENRIACH, vatted, not single casks
– Look for Benriach’s approach to standard expressions in the upcoming months and years

Good Christmas Eve story from friend of the KOTQ, Doug. His brother-in-law invited him to his special liquor area and told him to bring back anything he’d like to drink. Doug looked for the single malts and found two: a Signatory Dallas Dhu 1975 and LadyBurn 1973; both dismantled distilleries. It turns out that his brother-in-law was friends with the legendary Joe C of Binny’s who gave Doug’s brother-in-law Christmas gifts from Binny’s rare spirit vault every year for a time. In fact the Dallas Dhu was a bottling made from a cask hand-picked by Joe for a special Binny’s release. Every guest at the Christmas Eve party was not a single malt drinker (other than Doug) yet he had them all share in the experience. They were so overwhelmed by the smoothness of the Dallas Dhu yet remaining sweet and mildly spicy that the 8 of them finished the entire bottle that night. Twas the night before Christmas indeed! They were so wrapped up in the Dallas Dhu that they saved the LadyBurn for another time. I heard that they had never opened the LadyBurn and I asked him if his brother-in-law intends on drinking it our investing in it as a collectible. Truth is, I’ve never even seen an LadyBurn and told him I knew a buyer if he was looking to sell 😉

I just spent a week in London with my wife and I was fortunate that The Whisky Exchange was right in the heart of the one of the areas we hung out in. Near Shakespeare’s Globe Theater and the Tate Modern Art Gallery is an elegant and modern wine and spirit exchange called Vinopolis. The Whisky Exchange, a mecca for single malt enthusiasts and a great place to source UK-only or hard to find bottlings, is situated right at the heart of Vinopolis. But, just in case you need reminding they keep this sandwich board advertisement out on the street.

Here I am doing my level best to look the part of a single malt aficionado. This is just one corner of the store. There are at least two glass cases of rare bottlings, one of which you see in this photo. The store is smart and open and you are surrounded by beautiful bottlings. It took me a good while to peruse the store and my wife was very patient throughout and helped me locate certain bottlings.

The shelf full of Talisker was of particular interest; showcasing a number of UK-only Taliskers (the first 2 listed were released in spring 2013) along with the discontinued 175th Anniversary bottling. “Storm” is their 10 kicked up a notch (or two). “Port Ruighe” (pronounced Portree) is their port finish. “57° North” is a limited cask strength bottling. “175th anniversary” we tasted in 2009 which as I remember is a rare beauty. I probably should have snagged some of these as the first three are only currently available in the UK; but I found out after I returned 🙁

I ended up buying three bottles. I wanted to complete Brother Brass’s “Distiller’s Edition” tasting lineup he is designing so I bought the Clynelish “D”. I noticed right away “The Spirit of Lewis” expression which is the first release from the new Abhainn Dearg distillery on the Isle of Lewis which I know you cannot find in the States. I love island distilleries and I was excited to be able to pick this one up. Finally, Fettercairn is a difficult distillery to source in the US so when I saw the Fasque I just had to have it.

Just a heads up to KOTQ. I don’t have a good source yet, but it is heavily rumoured that Bruichladdich is discontinuing the entire “Laddie” line. The 10, 16, and 22 year may all be replaced. I just saw this on a tweet, but it seems authentic. In any case, if you enjoyed the Laddie (I did) at the last meeting that I hosted, now would be a good time to stock up.

Tao

Update 9/13/13 :  Saw this on /r/scotch today.  I’m attaching it as an image. Notice that they do not say that they are discontinuing the line, they simply say that they are not doing it because of pressure from the new owners.

I had the wisdom to order 3 oz of Springbank 1965, 39 year and share it with 5 other people at our last meeting. For those who weren’t able to make it this is one time where I wouldn’t be able to describe the experience. I might be able to say that the 39 supplements the wonderfully oily palate of its kid brother, the 21, with a vibrant lemon zest. I might try to describe the romance inside the glass. However, it would all be to no avail. This experience transcended the ability of the woefully limited English language to convey.

Very often very aged expressions bear no resemblance to their heritage and don’t match the hype. At least in this case you can believe the hype and the price tag.